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Smile Like You Mean It: Edinburgh New Years Eve

Friday 30th January 2016

365 days had passed since I had realised the leap year meant New Years Eve fell on a Saturday which meant I had a golden opportunity to go to Edinburgh for Hogmanay without requiring a days annual leave. My plan from the start was to get an overnight train or bus after work, arriving in Edinburgh in the early hours of New Years Eve and to depart on the bank holiday Monday.

I arrived at Victoria coach station and realised that due to the fog cancelling flights the bus was sold out. I had prepared myself for a cramped space however having chosen a lower bunk even I was shocked at the lack of space. I took off my shoes, slid sideways in to my bunk and lay on my back. There were inches between my face and the bunk above. Although I don’t usually suffer from claustrophobia it felt like I was in a coffin wearing a straight jacket when we were asked to strap ourselves in.

It was a lot hotter than I expected so after a couple of hours I tried removing my jacket which was particularly difficult due to the dark and lack of space. Once successful I used it as an additional pillow and throughout the 8 hour journey by some miracle I felt I got quite a bit of sleep. It certainly felt like an adventure and had been a bargain, but I did also realise that whilst there is a wannabe backpacker inside, I’m starting to need a basic level of comfort.

We arrived in Edinburgh on time and I walked from the bus station to the hostel. Unfortunately the reception wasn’t due to open until 8am, I dialled the 24 hour number but they hadn’t kept a list of the rooms, nor did they have a number for the tour guides. I was however able to have a shower. Instead I walked back up to the Royal Mile and stumbled upon the Booking Office, a Wetherspoons pub.

After a satisfying breakfast I returned back to the hostel for 8am. One of the guides had been forced to come up on the overnight sleeper train but the reception staff still couldn’t tell either of us what room we were meant to be in. Whilst we waited I contemplated how best to spend the day. My options were to nap until early afternoon and then a trip to the Royal Yacht Britannia or to join a day trip Stirling Castle and the Famous Grouse Distillery.

I was tired but I opted for the latter because the guide leading it seemed genuine with her encouragement. I knew I could sleep on the bus and thought there would be more chance that the issues around my room would be resolved by the time I returned. Even though two of the girls were playing music out loud on their phones in my didn’t take me long to sleep on the 1 hour 30 journey.

When I last visited Scotland I went to the Wallace Memorial and could see Stirling Castle through the mist on the other side of the valley. This was a similar misty day however I could still make out the memorial on the far side. After entering the castle we took part in a guides tour which provided some useful information about the strategic importance of the castle and its Royal history.

Our final stop was the Great Hall which had been decorated for New Years Eve as it was going to form part of a live BBC broadcast. Due to sleeping on the coach and most looking tired, I still hadn’t uttered a word to any of my fellow travellers that were on the coach. It was only once the guided tour was over I tried to break the ice and started to explore the castle with Di.

We started by visiting the Chapel before having a quick look around the military Regimental museum. We then continued to the Royal Palace which had originally been built for James V and has been restored to reflect the 1500s. The building fell in to disrepair after decades of neglect and the rooms have recently been completely rebuilt based on years of research. Finally we made our way down the steps to the basement of an area which has not been restored.

Di and I went out separate ways and I walked to the kitchen before I made my way back to the bus as I thought I could have a quick nap before the others got back. By the time I made it, the spitting rain had become a lot heavier however the bus was locked and I couldn’t see the driver or guide. I returned back to the castle and sought shelter in one of the shops where others that were on the coach gradually also began to congregate.

I slept on the coach as we travelled to the Famous Grouse Experience. Once we were inside we were told that because Famous Grouse is a blended whisky and is therefore not distilled, the distillery is actually for Glenturret, the main whisky blend used. It was an interesting tour especially as most of the processes are still done by hand and some of the original machinery is still used. We had two free samples and some chocolate truffles filled with Famous Grouse which I particularly enjoyed.

I slept on the coach back to Edinburgh and once I was back at the hostel I saw the guides in reception. Unfortunately rather than getting me the stuff I needed for the Fanatics tour I was sent to a cash point to get deposit for the key to my room. The 2 nearest cash machines were out of order and by the time I returned the guides were gone. I made my way to the room which whilst empty of people seemed fully occupied with the exception of one bed which lay on the floor in centre if room with a suspicious looking wet patch.

I returned to reception but for some unknown reason they still had no contact number for the tour guides. The receptionist came up to room and after knocking on the door, entered after no reply only for us to find 3 people sitting in a shifty way on a bed. Fortunately they confirmed my mattress wasn’t the one in the centre of the room, unfortunately as the receptionist left I realised everyone had been about to take a line of coke.

It wasn’t the best introduction and taking anything of real value I left the room feeling thoroughly pissed off. A group from Acton kindly took me in and we had pre drinks prior to going to the Stramash Bar club where I happened to bump in to Di and finally got my wristband for the Street Party and tour. I still didn’t have the t-shirt or beanie the latter of which could have been handy as it was cold and they actually looked pretty good.

After a few drinks we followed the rest of the group to the area we had tickets to see the fireworks. Fortunately it had stopped raining but it was quite cold and the music on the stage was a bit dull. It wasn’t quite the street party I’d expected, however perhaps we were just in a quieter area and I must add it was still more interesting than waiting in London. Every hour there was a mini firework display, and the anticipation steadily built as midnight approached.

The fireworks themselves were also slightly underwhelming even though we had a good view of them and the castle. Once they’d finished I assumed that Auld Lang Syne would blare out but it didn’t. No one even uttered a line from it, which was perhaps the greatest disappointment of the night. Di, I and a few others had stayed at the top of the hill so we had a quick escape and returned to the Stramash Bar Club.

As my room was pretty much uninhabitable my only option was to stay out as late as I possibly could. There was a live band but the atmosphere wasn’t that special because the music was mixed. By 3am I was ready to go and passed the Three Sisters pub which seemed to be more like the atmosphere I’d expected. I was feeling peckish and after successfully finding a takeaway devoured some curry chips before returning to the hostel.

Sunday 1st January 2017

I’d been first back to my room which meant I’d got a bit of sleep before the others returned. The guy in the bunk below didn’t realise I’d moved in and appeared slightly confused when he thought the bed was talking to him. I managed to get back to sleep though eventually woke up earlier than I needed to but decided to get up anyway so I could get ready for my trip to Loony Dook where I’d be having a New Years day dip in the Forth.

I left the room and went to the bar across the road for breakfast. When I’d finished I waited outside and was just about to introduce myself to 2 people who looked like they were also taking part in the swim. They were with a friend and I was taken aback when the friend said my name before I’d spoken. My mind raced and it was somewhat embarrassing at the length of time it took me to realise it was Jess’s friend Sarah who had been to our house on multiple occasions.

We arrived at South Queensferry and made our way to the registration desk. There was quite an icy wind which meant it was quite cold as we stood around however I was thankful that it wasn’t raining. We began the parade through town and whilst I was wearing my reindeer Christmas jumper I felt others had put in even more effort for example one guy in a bathtub and a couple dressed as Luke Skywalker and Princess Leia.

As I took my first tentative steps in to the water I was surprised that it wasn’t the icy daggers I’d expected. I moved a bit quicker as I waded through the water and once I was around waist height I dunked down so the water came up to my shoulders. As I stood up the cold wind hit me and my cold, wet Christmas jumper clung to me and felt heavy as I scampered out of the water.

After leaving the water I got changed and Di and I walked back to the coach. My feet still felt cold and I couldn’t wait for a hot shower but we were delayed leaving as a few people didn’t return on time. Worse after arriving at hostel my room mates had only just woken up and there was a queue for the shower as each took it in turns to vomit before showering. After I’d showered I rested in the room and downloaded the pictures from my go pro.

Eventually I left the room in search of some company. I watched the end of Arsenal vs Crystal Palace match but as I couldn’t see anyone I recognised I decided to walk to the castle which was spectacularly lit up. I took some pictures and then as I did 5 years ago called in to the Whisky Experience shop on my way home. I went on a window shopping exercise as I searched for the most expensive bottle which turned out to be a Balvenie costing £27,500.

I briefly returned to the hostel before going with most of the group to Byron burger.

I was at front of group as we entered and Di beckoned me to sit with her and the group she was with. Despite their prime product, it emerged that the restaurant had run out of burger buns. Worse the service was painfully slow; it took 2 hours for us to get served and I never received one of the free drinks I was owed.

In truth I was kind of beyond caring by that point and felt it was better to laugh at the chaos than take it seriously. The tour had been particularly unorganised as only two, perhaps three of the guides were actually any use. The others seemed to be on a free drinking holiday even telling people the wrong time for the coaches back to London. I still hadn’t received my free t-shirt or bobble hat/beanie and it was becoming increasingly unlikely I ever would.

After dinner we went to a club called Frankensteins. I tried to make the most of it and every round I bought a cheap Jager Bomb and a test tube of an unknown shot. The music was mixed but every now and then the DJ put on a song I and everyone else went crazy to for example You’re the Voice, Summer of 69 and I’m Gonna Be (500 Miles). Whilst I was mostly with the group I spent dinner with I also saw Sarah and her friends.

I returned back to the hostel and whilst I was first back it wasn’t by much as most of the others returned shortly after. The guy in the bunk below returned last with a rather drunk girl in tow. Having recently listened to the hilarious podcast “My Dad Wrote a Porno” I considered making this a tongue in cheek paragraph however I will spare you from further information suffice to say I feared the bed would collapse.

Monday 2nd January

I was woken up by the everyone in the room leaving. Unsurprisingly the guy in the bunk below me was suffering and announced he would stay in bed until the guides came to find him (therefore delaying the coach for all those returning to London). Thankfully he did get up so I didn’t have to spend any unnecessary time with him. I eventually got up, had a shower and surveyed the mess that the others had left behind.

I checked out of the hostel and any New Year New health resolutions were on pause for at least another 24 hours as I returned to the Wetherspoons for another ‘Full Scottish’. After pottering around the city in search of a bottle of water I boarded the bus for my journey home. It was full so I felt cramped during the 8 hour journey home though writing my blog and sleeping meant it passed relatively quickly.

Whilst I have no regrets about going, it hadn’t been the best experience. I wouldn’t say I was too old in age for a Fanatics tour but it would have been much better with a group of people I knew so we could have had our own room and escaped from the main tour at certain points. Perhaps in the way Summer, Lucy and I had when we attended Tomatina which was a similar style short tour.

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